7 Steps To Your KitchenAid Mixer’s Dream Makeover
I make it a point to not blog DIY projects on this blog. It isn’t the purpose of my site, nor do I want that to become the purpose. BUT this project worked so perfectly, and I’ve gotten so much feedback from people in this same situation that I wanted to write this post. Along with this project, I have one other I did earlier this summer that I’ll be sharing on Thursday (instead of Fresh Food Thursday). So, here goes! My first of two Do It Yourself blog posts!
A few months ago, I inherited a KitchenAid stand mixer. It has to be 20-25 years old, at least, and still works perfectly! It’s amazing how sturdy and well-built those things are, and I’m so thankful to have inherited one! My only “thing” with the mixer is that it looked … “vintage.” It was painted white, which had yellowed over time, and the metal label looked rusty. My mixer needed to be refreshed. So, here’s what I did!
1. TAKE PICTURES! The before and afters are so fun with this DIY project, and I sometimes get so caught up in these little projects that I forget to stop and photograph them.
2. Unscrew EVERYTHING that can be unscrewed. This includes the round, metal backing that holds the wires, the metal “KitchenAid” label that wraps around the top, the base that holds the bowl, all embedded screws, and the plastic ones that are on the sides (I’m assuming those are for some attachment that I don’t have …?).
3. Clean everything. All the metal you removed, all the painted areas. Get all the grime out of every nook and cranny you can.
4. Tediously, and I mean very tediously, use masking tape to tape all the areas that shouldn’t be painted, then use an exact-o-knife to cut out the circles. For all the areas where you unscrewed screws, there’s no need to be as tedious since the screws are removed and won’t be painted. Just wad up some masking tape and stick it in the holes. For the backing with the wires, I used Saran Wrap, rubber bands, and masking tape to secure everything and make sure all the wires and unpainted areas were protected. Once this was done, I coiled up the electrical wire and plug and fixed it to that back area in the same way (Saran Wrap and tape). Like a hair bun.
This step took the most time. Maybe an hour or more. But do it well and do it correctly, otherwise the end result will look shoddy.
5. Sand the panted part of the mixer with some fine-grained sandpaper. Not a lot. Just enough to rough-up the current paint color and allow the new paint to “stick” to it. Then wipe everything off so there’s no dust on the mixer.
6. Paint! Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy spray paint. The colors they offer are limited. Black gloss was my favorite our of their choices, but have fun with yours!
Follow the paint instructions, and do 2 coats. Let the first coat look thin; sometimes I want to paint the first coat so that the piece looks “finished” right away. AVOID THIS TEMPTATION! The paint will bubble and look bad. Thin coats are best with spray paint. Also, a little hint for even coating and to make sure you hit everything well. First, paint the whole thing with your mixer’s head down. Then, touching only the metal rod that’s covered in masking tape at the front of the mixer, lift the head up and paint the underside and other newly-exposed surfaces. Put the head back down and let it dry for two hours before doing the exact same things for the second coat.
Remember to paint the round back that you took off and those two plastic side-screws that match the color of the mixer. I taped off the extensions of those, then made double-sided tape and stuck it my painting board. Stand them upright — taped rod touching said sticky tape. This way, you can coat the little pieces without having to do it in sections. (For this project, in order to coat every surface, you shouldn’t have to touch any part of the painted surfaces. Ever. Only the taped stuff that doesn’t matter. Does that make sense?)
7. Let those two coats of paint dry over night/ for at least 8 hours. Use the exact-o-knife to cut the paint away from the tape before pulling the tape off. This way, the paint won’t rip off with the tape. Then put everything back together and enjoy!